Any cut is suitable, but the most common are leg or shoulder. Cook it for 50 minutes per pound, plus 25 minutes 10 minutes more if you like it well done instead of pink. Make a number of slits all over the meat, and insert a small piece of peeled garlic into each one. Add a tiny sprig of rosemary to each slit as well. If the meat is tied, tuck sprigs of rosemary, thyme or marjoram under the string. This will give a lovely subtle herb flavour to the meat. You can also scatter lemon zest over the lamb before roasting. Squeeze lemon juice over the meat when serving. A popular touch in the Middle East, this gives lamb an extra dimension. Make a herb and crumb crust by combining fresh chopped parsley, mint, thyme and marjoram with fresh breadcrumbs, grated lemon zest and enough oil to bind the mixture. Season with salt and pepper and spread over the lamb before roasting.

The Gravy

Pour the meat juices and fat from the roasting tin into a tin that will go on the hob. Better still, use the roasting tin once the meat has been removed for resting.

Spoon off most of the fat and meat juices, leaving just a few tbsp.

Heat this gently until bubbling, then stir in 1 tbsp plain flour for each 225ml liquid (about a cup), that will be used. Cook the flour, stirring for 1 minute, but don’t let the mixture burn.

Gradually add stock or water, stirring between additions to avoid lumps.

If you wish, add wine, sherry or Madeira or a few splashes of Worcestershire sauce.

Season to taste, then strain and serve hot.